Alan Rousseau

Shingo Shingo

Hometown: Salt Lake City, UT

Activities: Alpine Climbing, Skiing, & IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Guide


Grivel, Beal, Cilo Gear, Adidas


As a IFMGA mountain guide, Alan Rousseau has landed a profession that he is passionate about, a profession that has taken him to amazing ranges around the world. After spending his childhood in New England, Alan moved to Utah in 2004 where he lives with his wife and learned to climb. Initially, Alan picked up climbing as a secondary activity in an effort to take his skiing and snowboarding further up into the mountains. But the more he did it, the more he found passion in climbing impressive lines and summiting awe-inspiring peaks. Aside from his guiding trips, Alan has also received grant funding for five expeditions attempting first ascents in the Himalayas.

Mountain Resume:

  • First Ascent of ‘Ruth Gorge Grinder’ East Face Mount Dickey Ruth Gorge, AK. 5000’ VI M7 AI6+ April 2019
  • First Ascent of Rungofarka (6495M) Via North Ridge 4000’ VI M6 AI4+ A0 (five days on route) In Zanskar range Kashmir, India October 2017
  • First Ascent of Langmoche Ri peak Via NW Ridge (6611m) 2500’ V 80 degrees in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal (8 days B.C. to B.C.) November 2012
  • First Ascent of the West face of Pachermo peak (6275m) V 4000' M5 AI4 in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal October 2014
  • 2 time recipient of the AAC cutting edge award
  • 2 time recipient of the Copp-Dash inspire award
  • Mugs Stump award recipient
  • First ascents of mixed routes to M10
  • IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Guide
  • 2020 Piolets d'OR winner for his ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau, West Face, Release the Kraken, A15 M5+

The Grand Traverse and WURL

With COVID-19 shutting down Alan's summer travel plans, he turned his objectives closer to home and set his sites on completing the Grand Traverse and WURL.

Favorite Gear Picks

G20 Plus Cramp-O-Matic

Grivel Tech Machines

Grivel Plume HMS Twin Gate Carabiner

Beal Joker

Beal Ghost Harness