©Frederik Marmsater

Joe Mills


Hometown: Boulder, CO

Activities: Rock Climbing, Trail Running


Edelweiss & La Sportiva


Joe Mills has a passion for the mountains and has been climbing for nearly 20 years. His favorite discipline is traditional and big-wall free climbing, but pursues all aspects of climbing. When he is not climbing he works as a Data Scientist and father to his young daughter. He hopes to instill the same love for the mountains in her so that she may enjoy all the gifts and opportunities that a life outdoors provides.

Mountain Resume:

  • Second Free Ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall - 5.13+ R, 16 pitches - Black Canyon, CO
  • First Free Ascent of the Dunn-Westbay - 5.14a/b, 4 pitches - The Diamond, Long's Peak, CO
  • Three Free Ascents on El Capitan - Freerider (5.13a), Golden Gate (5.13a), & Salathe Wall (5.13b) - Yosemite, CA
  • First Free Ascent of Judon't Wanna Vogue (One of the hardest sport routes in Colorado's Front Range) - 5.14c - Boulder, CO
  • Third Free Ascent of The Honeymoon is Over - 5.13c, 8 pitches - The Diamond, Long's Peak, CO
  • Second Ascent of Cheating Reality - 5.13+ R - Flatirons, CO
  • Second All-Gear Ascent of China Doll - 5.14- R - Dream Canyon, CO
  • Sport Climbing up to 5.14d
  • Bouldering up to V12
  • Previous Speed Record Holder of a Winter Ascent of The Diamond - Long's Peak, CO
  • Sub 24-hour Leadville 100 Run

  • The Black Canyon: The New Black Project

    "For Joe Mills, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is a special place that offers something hard to find these days...a true adventure. In 2010, Joe climbed for the first time in The Black and quickly realized there was potential for new, harder routes. With the plums already picked, Joe sets his eyes on being the first to free an old aid line that hasn't been climbed in 30 years; a 13 pitch route with the final pitch being a 40 foot roof most likely going at 5.14, "a dream pitch" in Joe's eyes". A film by Karsten Delap, Fredrik Marmsater, and Director/Producer Evan Kay.


    ©Frederik Marmsater

    Favorite Gear Picks

    Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm

    Edelweiss 7MM Dyneema

    Cypher Vesta Quickdraws

    Edelweiss Scorpion 2 Harness

    Cypher Ascenders